Retinoids? What are they and are they worth the hype?
There is a lot of misinformation about vitamin A aka retinoid, Retin-A, retinol, pro-retinol or retinoic acid, so lets clarify what retinoids are. Are they scary to use, if they are all the same, how best to use them and are they worth the hype?
What are retinoids?
Retinol, a member of the retinoid family, is derived from vitamin A and when applied to the skin, it gets absorbed and interacts with receptors called retinoid receptors. It goes through a process called oxidation to convert it to the active form, all trans retinoic acid, which then unlocks the retinoid receptor. Retinoids improve skin texture by increasing cell turnover and fibroblast function, leading to fewer fine lines and a more youthful appearance. They also help with uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation.
It’s important to note that starting retinol can cause fear and anxiety, but with proper usage and consultation with a skincare professional, it can bring promising results.
What are retinoids?
Retinol, a member of the retinoid family, is derived from vitamin A and when applied to the skin, it gets absorbed and interacts with receptors called retinoid receptors. It goes through a process called oxidation to convert it to the active form, all trans retinoic acid, which then unlocks the retinoid receptor. Retinoids improve skin texture by increasing cell turnover and fibroblast function, leading to fewer fine lines and a more youthful appearance. They also help with uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation.
It’s important to note that starting retinol can cause fear and anxiety, but with proper usage and consultation with a skincare professional, it can bring promising results.
“Retinol is the golden ingredient that delivers everything from solving acne to improving the appearance of aging skin,” says Debbie Thomas, Founder of the laser skin clinic D.Thomas in London.
Retinol, a member of the retinoid family, is derived from vitamin A and when applied to the skin, it gets absorbed and interacts with receptors called retinoid receptors. It goes through a process called oxidation to convert it to the active form, all trans retinoic acid, which then unlocks the retinoid receptor. Retinoids improve skin texture by increasing cell turnover and fibroblast function, leading to fewer fine lines and a more youthful appearance. They also help with uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation.
It’s important to note that starting retinol can cause fear and anxiety, but with proper usage and consultation with a skincare professional, it can bring promising results.
Benefits of retinol
for your skin
It may take 8-12 weeks to start seeing the benefits of using retinoids, so don’t expect miraculous overnight results. You need to persevere, over time retinoids will give you clearer healthier skin and reduce the likelihood of scarring.
Increased cellular
turnover
Collagen
stimulation
Improve
skin tone
Prevent
breakaouts
How to use retoinods
As vitamin C plays a leading defensive role against the environment, I find that it fits best within a great daytime routine. Vitamin C is active on the skin for 24 hours so a once-daily application is sufficient. It is perfectly safe to use whilst trying to conceive, during pregnancy and throughout breastfeeding. For l-ascorbic acid to be efficacious in the skin it must be formulated at a pH of 3.5 which is quite acidic and could potentially be irritating. If you have very sensitive or reactive skin, make sure to patch test first to see how your skin gets on with it.
It’s wise to purchase a well-packaged and well-formulated product to ensure a good shelf-life for your product. Store in a cool and fairly dark place as sunlight can lead to oxidation, which you’ll notice if the colour changes to a dark orangey-brown. Air-tight pumps are the best packaging but if using a serum with a dropper, make sure the lid is tightly secured after each use.
Frequently Asked Questions
Use of Pro-Retinols
How To Use Retinols
How To Use Retin-A
Skincare for Men
Acne is categorised as chronic inflammation of the sebaceous glands.
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Skin of Colour
Acne is categorised as chronic inflammation of the sebaceous glands.
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Combination Skin
Acne is categorised as chronic inflammation of the sebaceous glands.
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Could you actually be doing too much for your skin? 👀
We love seeing more people take a genuine interest in their skin health, but looking after your skin doesn’t have to mean doing absolutely everything.
In fact, some of the best results we see in clinic come from clients who have found a routine that works for them and stick to a consistent treatment plan.
Your skin’s needs change over time, which is why we assess it at every appointment rather than following the same treatment protocol each time.
A little less experimenting, a little more consistency. We’re very much here for it 🤍
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Some people might not like this… 🫣
1. Buying the highest % you can find.
Especially with retinoids. Stronger doesn’t always mean better for your skin, and you don’t need to keep increasing the strength because someone online has. There should be a reason beyond the % on the bottle.
2. Using exfoliating pads, then exfoliating again.
An easy one to miss. If your toner pads contain exfoliating acids, they already count. Adding another acid afterwards could mean doubling up, particularly if you’re also using a retinoid.
3. Calling every reaction “purging”.
Persistent burning, soreness or redness shouldn’t be dismissed as part of the process. If it’s a prescribed product, speak to your prescriber. You don’t need to quietly put up with discomfort.
4. Assuming “natural” means better for your skin.
Beef tallow is a good example: the confidence around it has outpaced the research. An ingredient’s origin tells you very little about how well the finished product will suit your skin.
5. Giving a serum a week before moving on to the next recommendation.
We understand the temptation. But many results take weeks or months, and changing everything makes it hard to know what’s helping. Unless something is causing a reaction, give it a fair chance before deciding it isn’t working.
Which skincare advice are you tired of hearing?🥲