Skin of colour
The beauty, uniqueness, and diversity of human skin is truly remarkable, and black skin is no exception. Physiologically, black skin differs from white skin in several ways that make it uniquely adapted to its environment.
Melanin
Melanin is a complex pigment that plays an important role in determining the colour and health of human skin. Eumelanin, a type of melanin that is dark brown in colour, is more abundant in people with black skin and is responsible for the varying shades of brown skin tones found within our population.
The amount and size of melanocytes and melanosomes in black skin are critical factors that contribute to the unique characteristics of this pigment. While melanin provides some natural protection against premature ageing caused by UV radiation from the sun, it also makes black skin more susceptible to discolouration, including both hypopigmentation and hyperpigmentation.
Water retention
Water retention is a crucial aspect of healthy skin, and it’s important to understand how different skin types can be affected by it. In black skin, lower levels of ceramides can lead to increased water loss, which can contribute to dryness and dehydration.
However, black skin also has some unique characteristics that can affect its overall health. On average, black skin produces more sebum (natural oils) and has a more compact stratum corneum than white skin. While this can be beneficial for retaining moisture, it can also lead to more breakouts and clogged pores. The combination of increased water loss and excess sebum production can also lead to combination skin, which requires a targeted skincare approach.
Collagen
Collagen is a vital protein that provides structure and support to the skin. In black skin, collagen fibres are thicker, tighter, and smaller, and they are formed into tightly packed bundles. These collagen bundles are an essential component of healthy skin, but they can be vulnerable to damage from UV radiation. Fortunately, the presence of melanin in black skin helps to protect these collagen bundles by acting like an overcoat. Melanin helps to absorb and disperse the UV radiation, preventing it from penetrating deeply into the skin and damaging the collagen fibres.
Scarring
Scarring is a natural process that occurs when the skin is injured and attempts to repair itself. However, in black skin, the more robust collagen construction can make it more susceptible to certain types of scarring. Hypertrophic and keloid scarring are two types of scarring that are particularly more common in black skin. These types of scarring occur when the body produces too much collagen in response to an injury. Hypertrophic scars are raised, red scars that typically occur at the site of the wound, while keloid scars are larger and more pronounced, often extending beyond the site of the original injury.
The overproduction of collagen in these types of scarring can be caused by a variety of factors, including genetics, the size and location of the wound, and the type of injury. While scarring is a natural part of the healing process, hypertrophic and keloid scarring can be particularly challenging to treat.
What ingredients are suitable for
skin of colour?
When it comes to selecting skincare ingredients that are suitable for black skin, there are a few key considerations to keep in mind. While everyone’s skin is unique and may require a personalised approach, there are some general recommendations depending on your specific skin concerns:
For dry skin
Look for ingredients that provide deep hydration and nourishment, such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides. These ingredients help to restore moisture to the skin and can help to prevent dryness and flakiness
For acne-prone skin
Look for ingredients that can help to regulate oil production and prevent clogged pores, such as salicylic acid and retinoids. These ingredients can help to clear up existing breakouts and prevent new ones from forming.
For combination skin
Look for ingredients that can help to balance oil production while still providing hydration to dry areas. Some good options include niacinamide, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), and vitamin C.
Are lasers suitable for
skin of colour?
With technological advances in recent years, laser treatments have become a safe and effective option for people of colour looking to optimise their skin health. Lasers can stimulate collagen production, fade excess melanin, and even out skin tone, making them a top-tier for achieving healthy, radiant skin.
While it’s true that lasers are suitable for dark skin, not all lasers are created equal. Laser technology has become much more sophisticated and advanced, allowing for the detection of dark hair or excess melanin pigment on a dark surface. However, it’s essential to visit an experienced practitioner who can determine which laser is best for your skin type and concerns.
The Black Skin Directory is an excellent resource for connecting people of colour with skincare practitioners who have experience and expertise in treating skin of colour.
When it comes to laser treatments for dark skin, Nd:Yag technology is often the laser of choice. This technology uses a longer wavelength that penetrates deeper into the skin, effectively bypassing the melanin in the upper layers of the skin. This makes it a safer and more effective option for people with darker skin tones.
